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E-flite MLP4DSM conversion from mode 2 to 1

Recently somebody asked me to convert his E-flite MLP4DSM remote control from mode 2 to mode 1. Had already done this about two years ago for my own device, which I aquired second hand with a nice little Blade MCX but forgot to take photos of the procedure. So here it is for archival purposes and to whom it may be of interest.

This entry was posted on Sonntag, Januar 16th, 2011 at 4:47 pm and is filed under Electronics. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.

8 Responses to “E-flite MLP4DSM conversion from mode 2 to 1”

  1. Alex sagt:
    Januar 25, 2011 um 5:12 am Uhr

    Hi, I bought Blade 120 SR. It was great to play but my mind couldn’t control the helicopter to steer. Im using Mode 2 the reason I used to play Battlefield bad company, that they have helicopter so i thought it was similar control from keyboard to this remote control which im using my left hand to throttle the accelerator and release I couldn’t steer what im looking at where it goes left or right by confusing. so I will try to change from mode 2 to 1 and let you know how I go with it. You did good job taking photos and step by steps instruction to convert it. Question, the bottom left end photo, you see there are two switches. One is for power off and on and one for mode 2 to 1. So after swapping the joystick by unsoldering and soldering it, should i switch to mode 1 by pushing to 1?
    Thanks
    Alex

    • Hajo sagt:
      Januar 25, 2011 um 11:42 pm Uhr

      Hi Alex,

      thank you for your kind words. You are right: The upper switch must be pushed to mode 1 after soldering. And by the way: Two pins per stick controller were bent for fixing (at factory). To avoid damaging the pads, you should better carefully suck off the solder before straightening them.

      Regards,
      Hajo

      • Alex sagt:
        Januar 29, 2011 um 2:05 pm Uhr

        Hi Hajo,

        I think I did bad job, I bought gootwick (copper wire) and took most of the solder out but not easy. I should have bought suck tube which is better. So the two stickers – the 4 legs which hold the circuit that bend from factory, on that circuit where the legs are one of the layer circuit was taking off which I press to hard and it looks like bold (brown colour). Anyway each of two sticks rings are taken off. I guess those legs are not important as it only hold the circuit board.
        I did test the control the helicopter and everything is working fine and in control.
        Thankyou for the pictures that you upload and I found it through google! But I have to learn again which side im using the throttle and elevator and alieron again. Its like driving the right side of the car in USA then drive the car in Australia is different!
        Cheers
        Alex

        • Hajo sagt:
          Januar 30, 2011 um 6:57 pm Uhr

          Hi Alex,

          thanks for your report. Not a bad job, if you ask me, but just dealing with one of the typical difficulties. And it’s a 30$ part after all. Have fun!

          Regards,
          Hajo

  2. stefano sagt:
    September 29, 2012 um 8:21 pm Uhr

    really a great job!!
    i am trying since yesterday to clean up by a sucking tool but nothing :(.
    Is there an alternative way to clean up and then remove the joysticks?
    thanks!!
    stefano

    • Hajo sagt:
      September 30, 2012 um 12:55 pm Uhr

      Hi Stefano,

      thank you. There is nothing other that I could recommend than a good (and powerful) soldering iron and copper wire. When in doubt, ask a friend or club buddy to do the job for you.

      Good luck and all the best,
      Hajo

  3. mike berry sagt:
    August 28, 2014 um 5:51 pm Uhr

    Hi;
    I wonder if you could suggest a receiver to use with my mlp4dsm in mi e-flite ask-21

    Thanx
    Mike